It should be difficult to judge the quality of pearl from naked eyes, but knowing the fundamental categories that determine a pearls’ value will behoove the consumer who wishes to purchase pearl jewelry. The quality of pearls are generally judged in the following categories: thickness of the nacre, luster, size, shape, and color.
Nacre - The thickness of a pearl’s nacre is one of the elements that determine the size of pearl. Nacre thickness also determines a pearl’s resistant to discoloration. Cultured pearls with a thin-nacre despite its size will be more vulnerable to blemishes and cracking.
Size - Important, but not exclusively so. A perfectly formed smaller pearl might fetch a higher price than a slightly flawed larger one. If all else is equal, the larger pearl will be the more valuable. Unlike diamonds, pearls are not static gems; they are “alive” and can change with time, so caring for them is crucial.
Luster - The pearls’ luster is enigmatic, and its iridescence can mesmerize the onlooker through its sheer sublime simplicity. Luster is determined by the thickness of the nacre as well. A pearl bearing a smooth and blemish free surface possesses a high degree of luster. You can judge the luster of a pearl by attempting to see your reflection on the surface of the pearl. If the pearl projects a blurry reflection, the pearl is deemed as having a low quality. If you see a fairly clear reflection of yourself, you possess within your hand a high quality pearl with a thick-nacre.
Color - Pearls are classified in many colors; white, cream, pink, silver, black, and gold. The best quality of pearls are pearls which have only color without defects. The overtone of a pearl is determined by the combination of colors projected when a pearl is rotated and they usually have a rose, green, or blue hue. What makes pearls so mesmerizing is their color projection. A good quality pearl will emanate its color from within. The depth of a pearl’s color projection adds greatly to its value.
These all are the factors to judge the quality of saltwater pearls. On the other hands, the cultured pearls of freshwater pearls are graded in the 4 categories; AAA (Extra Fine), AA (Fine), A (Good), and BB (Commercial).
AAA grade - pearls are spherical in shape, even in color and luster, flawless, and they have a high level of luster and iridescence.
AA+ grade - pearls have a high luster and iridescence and is 95% flawless. Most AA+ pearls are frequently used in necklaces and bracelets.
AA grade - pearls generally have a lesser degree of luster and iridescence; they also lack color uniformity with slight blemishes. Most AA grade pearls are drilled on the blemish to hide the flaw.
A grade - pearls have less luster and iridescence than AA pearls. The naked eye might be able to detect flaws and the shape will be slightly irregular.
BB grade - pearls will tend to look chalky white and they will have less luster and, iridescence. They will also tend to have blemishes.
AAA and AA+, AA pearls are usually used in pearl necklaces because jewelers are able to match size, color, and luster of the pearls fairly easily
Original Article:
http://www.bemypearl.com/pearl-quality.html
http://nymag.com/nymetro/urban/strategist/everything/pearls/11860/
Picture Credit:
http://wendyusuallywanders.wordpress.com/2009/10/07/misery-loves-company/
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